If we get some decent light for you to play that should not be a problem. :)

Don

i would certainly recommend the 'P' setting on the dial rather than the green 'point n shoot' mode.....The 'p' program mode is essencially very very similar to the green mode, but unlike the green mode allows small setting alterations to be made...thing like choose whether you want flash or not, ISO, exposure compensation, metering options etc open up new possiblities without having to know the camera inside out.
It's an excellent camera, from when I've handled and tested it.....very nice
good luck with it, and the best for the holiday

You should be able to justify this on the grounds of cost. "There's no point in spending all this money on a new camera if it never gets used. It'd be like buying those new curtains that you've been after for ages, and never hanging them because they might fade................, dear."

Good point, I'll quote you. :D

Lello,

The attached graphic should give some idea of what is going on in program and auto mode.

Depending on the level of light the camera is adjusting shutter speed and aperture to suit the program curve. I have just found that the curve for the D80 is on page 139 of the manual.

As Joe says putting it in 'P' mode does give access to program shift and the values are displayed in the viewfinder.

Don

Lello,
from the first two pictures, I would guess the subject was simply not in focus. It does not look like caused by wide open aperture, since the Nikkor18-200 VR is reasonably sharp even at that.
Can you verify on what part of the scene your camera focused?
OR, perhaps it was in focus, but it is simply slight motion blur. Even the VR can not save every slow shutter speed shot. You can check the shutter speed in your camera viewfinder while preparing for the shot. If it is too slow, just dial in a faster shutter speed by the dial on rear of camera grip (in P or S mode)

That is just my guess, of course.

If you seek to master your new D80, I sincerely recommend to start using the "A" mode for the shots where you want to have creative control over the look of the photograph (the depth of field - DOF). Using the DOF will make a difference between ordinary snapshot and creative photograph.

For action shots (sport, children, pets...) you may switch to either S mode and set the time manualy, or choose the Sport program.

For anything else (like handing the camera to other person who is not familiar with), the P program is safe bet - like A, but you can do adustments on the fly (exposure compensation comes on mind).

Hope it helps :)

RB

Do any members own Nikons 18-200 zoom.I am thinking of replacing my 18-70 zoom with this "super" zoom.I have read reviews both positive and negative about this lens and I am now wondering if I will regret buying the lens.My main reason for buying is to keep lens changing to a minimum so as to reduce dust on the sensor problems.

Although I'm a Canon user, before buying my 20D I did research the Nikon stable of lenses. The 18-70 that you have gets good reports and while the 18-200 is an attractive proposition in terms of zoom range and VR all the manufacturers find it difficult to make a lens with that range with the same optical quality as a zoom with a shorter range. If you want a longer zoom I would consider looking at the 70-300 VR which has the advantage of going longer and being ~£150 cheaper. For tests of both see www.slrgear.com and www.photozone.de

As for the dust on sensor problem, careful lens changing should reduce this, and actually cleaning your own sensor is not that difficult (although a bit nerve wracking the first couple of times :eek: ) - I use a kit combination of SensorSweep brush and SensorSwipe/pec pads/eclipse fluid as necessary from www.copperhillimages.com who give a comprehensive tutorial on how to go about it but also see this thread for other options

Thankyou Clive some very usefull food for thought.
rgds
Stephen