Well I am surprised unless the guy wants to shoot wide open in a small space.
Just checked the specs and the 200 adjustment range is 12-200w/s and the 400 25-400w/s, so only one stop in it.

As you know I have a Multiblitz 200w/s and that is often underpowered for what I want even using it in the limited space of the workshop. When used as the master I always have it on full bore from max 3ft away to get f11 at ISO100. Maybe I do loose more power firing into a giant Apollo rather than straight though as in those softboxes, but I bet its not more than 1 Stop.

Maybe I should see if I can find my flash meter and measure it.

Anyway a really cheap solution to that if its an occasional problem, is garden fleece draped over the front panel. 2 layers will cut light by around a stop I guess.
( you can tell I fly by wire - never use a flashmeter :D ). Double that for -2 stops etc, etc.

Don

A softbox is a must with a grid fitted as its more directional than one without and definitely so with a brolly. Also depending on what you are doing you will need grids/flags as you have to control the light even more. A W/B card is a must as you will no doubt get colour cast.
Radio triggers are the best route to go down. You don't have to go down the PW route as you can purchase cheaper triggers like this.http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Speedlight-str...item2ea9a020fa
and they also work great with off camera flashes. They are good as i have and still use them. The main difference between them is that the PW have a better working distance.
Safety is a must as people easily trip over the wires and stands getting knocked and the light smashing your model in the head. I know :)
You don't have to go mad with the lighting at first you can get good second hand gear like Bowen or something like the D-lite kit. The light modifiers are not cheap and again you can get second hand or cheaper versions, but they are a must.
With some things you can make your own modifiers.

Look forward to seeing some images.

Thanks all.. it's sooooo confusing but what does anyone think of this? get a reasonable write up in Practical Photography


http://www.studio-flash.com/professi...8l263bb0ekft11

I saw that issue of PP and bought a copy specifically for the "small home studio" feature. As Peter said in post #7, a 3 second recycle time may be rather limiting. From my own experience in a studio, I'd say 3 seconds is an eternity. It depends if you're going to use them at full power in a small setting.

The feature in PP seems to have given them a lot of publicity, they've sold out until next delivery 6th March. Not sure if this kit is significantly better than the one I pointed to in my 1st reply to this post, or any of the similar kits you'll find on ebay.

Duncan

Best option (I feel) would be one 500WS head and one small head.
I believe in working with as less lights as possible.

Hi, I'm working photographer and being using Elinchrom Style RX 1200 flash heads for my studio and mobile studio portraits. It's very powerful at 1200w/s and has 5 stops range with digital display. The RX1200 is the top of range if you have the budget, but if you are tight on budget you can get the Elinchrom D-Lite-It-2 or D-Lite-It-4. I've done some research for you and come up with.

1. D-Lite-It-2 (200w/s power output) To Go Kit $720USD
2. D-Lite-It-4 (400w/s power output) To Go Kit $850USD

Another idea would be buying some kind of stand with umbrella or softbox attachement, but some times it can be more expensive than just buying a studio flash heads kit?