Nikon 18-200mm
 

What do you think of these? I think they are soft, and I can't work out if it's me,or the lens or both!:confused:
Settings: auto, VR on, hand held, f5.6,1/250 at 200mm auto w/b
at about 15-18ft
Thanks
Lello

Lello,

Initial thought is aperture. The 18-200 is f3.5 to f5.6. In this case that means f3.5 is the widest aperture at the 18mm end and f5.6 the widest at the 200mm end. For a lens of this zoom range sharpness will increase as the lens is stopped down. MTF tests that I have seen suggest f8-f11 for this focal length.

The next question is severity of crop. It also appears to be a low contrast situation so you do not have that extra boost that enhances apparent sharpness.

I will have a net search for some reviews and then come back with possible test suggestions unless someone beats me to it.

Don

Lello,

Just to keep you going while I rummage, Here is link to a test. Scroll to the bottom to ge to the test http://www.cameralabs.com/features/18200_issue/

This second link ( an exrtact ) will help to gve some idea of the effect on performance of stopping the lens down. Note the softness at f5.6 compared to f16. http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Ni...m/page4c.shtml

Don

This was taken from same place but at f10, do you think this is sharper?

Lello,

I have tried a touch of curves ( that gives the increase in contrast as well as lightening to comparable levels ) then realised the image size ( reduced for posting here ) so rather difficult to tell but the suggestion is yes f10 is better.

I will PM a few tests as you have already run up 3 of your 4 daily allowance.

Don

I knew there was a thread on the subject of lens testing. Found it. :)
http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...ead.php?t=1174

Don

Hi Lello,

Looking at your two shots I would hazard a guess that it's a combination of two things.

First is as Don has mentioned DOF - you have your lens wide open at max zoom, if you increase the f value to say f8 and step your ISO up to say 400 you can then maintain your shutter speed at 200+ preferably 1/300

I think the slight fuz is due to shutter speed and focus + the above.

Practice and patience will make perfect.

Lots of Luck

Brian

Hi guys I have just realised, I'm sure when I took these shots the Cam was on Auto (green on dial) The manual says that you should use this setting if you are new to digital SLR (the Cam should be setup for optimum shot!) never had a problem with my point and shoot Oly :D Can you imagine the scenario, Tina and me on a boat in the Seychelles I have just finished putting suntan cream on Tina's back, hands greasy with cream and a Dolphin comes out the water to say hello, I tell Tina to quickly grab the D80 (as she is not into photography she would use the auto setting) and take this once in a life time shot!!! I would obviously blame her for the bad photo, And she would say I told you the Olympus is better. help!!! :D :D

I do not have ' Auto ' on a camea to check it out. I suspect it is a fixed program mode. I will do a graphic tomorrow to explain it, but in essence the camera takes a light reading and based on ISO selected determines shutter speed and aperture. The program will determine, some are fixed curves and others are depending on focal length set, a minimum safe shutter speed for that. It will then restrict closing down the aperture until that point is reached. If the light is poor the camera will just select a shutter speed to suit the light even though it falls below the determined safe point for that focal length of lens. It assumes the photographer is in control.

I would not worry about the Seychelles scenario as bucket loads of light there so this would not happen. :D

Don

I have been told by "She who must be obeyed" that I will be taking the FZ30 on holiday :( and not the D80 (Unless I can prove I can master the D80 in the 3 weeks before we go)


I would not worry about the Seychelles scenario as bucket loads of light there so this would not happen. No because I will not be rubbing suntan cream onto Tina's back :D

If we get some decent light for you to play that should not be a problem. :)

Don

i would certainly recommend the 'P' setting on the dial rather than the green 'point n shoot' mode.....The 'p' program mode is essencially very very similar to the green mode, but unlike the green mode allows small setting alterations to be made...thing like choose whether you want flash or not, ISO, exposure compensation, metering options etc open up new possiblities without having to know the camera inside out.
It's an excellent camera, from when I've handled and tested it.....very nice
good luck with it, and the best for the holiday

You should be able to justify this on the grounds of cost. "There's no point in spending all this money on a new camera if it never gets used. It'd be like buying those new curtains that you've been after for ages, and never hanging them because they might fade................, dear."

Good point, I'll quote you. :D

Lello,

The attached graphic should give some idea of what is going on in program and auto mode.

Depending on the level of light the camera is adjusting shutter speed and aperture to suit the program curve. I have just found that the curve for the D80 is on page 139 of the manual.

As Joe says putting it in 'P' mode does give access to program shift and the values are displayed in the viewfinder.

Don

Lello,
from the first two pictures, I would guess the subject was simply not in focus. It does not look like caused by wide open aperture, since the Nikkor18-200 VR is reasonably sharp even at that.
Can you verify on what part of the scene your camera focused?
OR, perhaps it was in focus, but it is simply slight motion blur. Even the VR can not save every slow shutter speed shot. You can check the shutter speed in your camera viewfinder while preparing for the shot. If it is too slow, just dial in a faster shutter speed by the dial on rear of camera grip (in P or S mode)

That is just my guess, of course.

If you seek to master your new D80, I sincerely recommend to start using the "A" mode for the shots where you want to have creative control over the look of the photograph (the depth of field - DOF). Using the DOF will make a difference between ordinary snapshot and creative photograph.

For action shots (sport, children, pets...) you may switch to either S mode and set the time manualy, or choose the Sport program.

For anything else (like handing the camera to other person who is not familiar with), the P program is safe bet - like A, but you can do adustments on the fly (exposure compensation comes on mind).

Hope it helps :)

RB

Do any members own Nikons 18-200 zoom.I am thinking of replacing my 18-70 zoom with this "super" zoom.I have read reviews both positive and negative about this lens and I am now wondering if I will regret buying the lens.My main reason for buying is to keep lens changing to a minimum so as to reduce dust on the sensor problems.

Although I'm a Canon user, before buying my 20D I did research the Nikon stable of lenses. The 18-70 that you have gets good reports and while the 18-200 is an attractive proposition in terms of zoom range and VR all the manufacturers find it difficult to make a lens with that range with the same optical quality as a zoom with a shorter range. If you want a longer zoom I would consider looking at the 70-300 VR which has the advantage of going longer and being ~£150 cheaper. For tests of both see www.slrgear.com and www.photozone.de

As for the dust on sensor problem, careful lens changing should reduce this, and actually cleaning your own sensor is not that difficult (although a bit nerve wracking the first couple of times :eek: ) - I use a kit combination of SensorSweep brush and SensorSwipe/pec pads/eclipse fluid as necessary from www.copperhillimages.com who give a comprehensive tutorial on how to go about it but also see this thread for other options

Thankyou Clive some very usefull food for thought.
rgds
Stephen