Shadow, Highlight Check
 

I tried making a negative image from my b/w work copy to check how my exposure turned out. This is especially good for shadow detail as it is the brightest part of the negaative. I did not do any changes, but could have and just made a new negative after each few changes. Slow it may be, but it has some degree of use this way. My next project is to try negative idea in color.

Here is a color variation of the negative and normal image.
First I made 4 or 5 work copies of the original cropped version.
Next I did a small amount of tweaking on this cropped version.

Then I made a negative copy of the tweaked original to study high and low tonal values.
I would then assess my negative - saving it - as it is - or removing it and working on the tweaked copy further. If I removed the negative copy and did more tweaking, I would add a couple of tweaked work copies back in. When I am finished totally - I save the negative copy for reference and the tweaked copy of the original. I know this is slow, but it really points up how the exposure is.

I just tested the Highlighats on Value 7 bright and 4 darkish in Negative illustration above. Value 7 worked the bright of the Negative image which is Value 4 in the Normal brightness Image. Vaule 4 matched the darker part of the skin in the Negative and bighter part of the skin (Right Cheek) of the subject. This works well for a double check as the Value 4 is directly above Value 7 on the GRAY SCALE & VALUE FINDER. This is also like doing GRISAILLE on the Negative as much as on the real Black and White.
The Values I get doing this check on the Negative Image in Hue Saturation, I note down, and apply the same Values to my real life black and white and color images.

Very interesting study that i have never experienced it,if you are satisfied with the results should continue working on it,good luck and go with it Norm,best regards :)


mo

I answered your note in an email but I do offer my thanks for the kind words, Mo. They are mulch appreciated and I do and will keep working with this method. This is one of the best ideas I have tried.

This study can also be done by doing a SAVE AS in FILE MENU of any image on the websites. Then you can do a DUPLICATE WHOLE IMAGE, or SAVE AS to make about 4 Work Copies in BLACK and WHITE or COLOR or BOTH. The LAST ONE being the NEGATIVE WORK COPY IMAGE to study first. If you work on it - write down all values you get in your tools. Then apply them in the same tools to the real copy.

Before I did anything - even using the cam - I ask - what light level do I have in front of me? In this case - Shuttered Window Light.
After I did the image - I found Tonal Values to work on - in my Negative Image Work Copy - that would keep the light level I have in the room. My Tonal Value to work on turned out to be the subject's right hand (our left) right where it touches the left arm.
My end result carried the Shuttered Window Look by not wiping out on the face, arms, or White Shirt.

I made a Capital "E" and gave it a color level of 127 mid grey (half way between 000 and 255 in the color scale in red, blue and green). Then I went all over my Negative Work Copy Image to find a 127 Grey point in it. Then I Tweaked my image to that Value in Hue Saturation and Sharpness Tools.

My Subject is a test case using the 127 mid grey values on a real life image.

For those interested

I made a Negative Work Copy Image of the scene.
Then I opened my 10 VALUE Gray Card and 127 "E".
First I used the G S V F Card and worked up my VALUE 5 and VALUE 6 POINTS
Next I double checked that with my 127 "E" on Value 7 - a dead match on all of them between the G S V F Card and 127 Grey "E".
Values I obtained in my Tools working in my Negative Copy, I applied to the real scene to acieve the following.

This is one of your greatest works Norm,very very well taken and done in all aspects,wonderful twilight shot,congratulations to you :)