Peter,

Two options I have found for getting the film in a single roll. Seems its more easily available in packs of 5.
Warehouse Express have Fuji Provia 400X 120 ISO 400 film in single rolls for £3.88 a roll, and Calumet have Fujifilm RDPIII 120 Provia 100F for £3.15 a roll.
Given your location then I suggest WHE next time you are Norwich way to save on postage. You must make sure you get it in 120 and not 35mm.

For processing I suggest you send it to Peak Imaging. Cost £3.75
Here is the link to Peak web site.
http://www.peak-imaging.com/htmls/process.htm

So film, processing, and any postage for say £10. That would give sufficient material for at least 4 sets, so if there are any other members wanting to have a go you could sell the spare strips.

I saw the price of Cokin adaptor rings today and got a serious shock :eek:. Just crazy prices, so in case you do not have one I took a look through Amateur Photographer, and found an ad for Premier Ink & Photographic who are doing a compatible with Cokin .... 'Kood P-Type' for a LOT less.
Link to Premier Ink & Photographic
http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photogr...0_361_363.html

Not sure what filter diameter your lens has but I am only down the road from you if you have queries as to mounting it.
If you want to try mine out first before going further then I am sure we can arrange a visit. :)

Don

Andy,

Thanks for posting those but the vegitation kind of give it away as a filter job. IR works at its best in bright sunlight where vegetation particularly, emits large amounts of IR light hence its bright appearance.
Attatched is a colour version of Denver Mill and the IR looking job I did on it. It is still not right though as true IR has a bit of a glow to the vegitation, also remember for B&W on a bright day, skies can look like a deep red filter has been used. Due to playing with my 'attempt at true IR on the cheap' job I have not had time to work out how on earth I did it :confused:.

Afraid I do not have the Efex range of filters you do so I cannot simulate what you have here. I have just got to get my head round Photoshop channel mixing as that means we can all play with a similar program. You and I can do stuff in NX2 which I find easy but most others are using Photoshop in all its flavours.

Don

Don, I couldn't agree more, the vegetation does give them away as "false" filter jobs, but your cheap solution is as near correct as I've seen. We have to bear in mind that there are several "IR" filters out there that creep from the end of visible into IR, some which just allow IR, like the Wratten #87 and some which block out some or all IR.

Here is a Chart of IR filters courtesy of LINK
http://www.markerink.org/WJM/HTML/irfilter.htm


Wratten Schott B+W Hoya Tiffen 0% 50% Remarks
# 25 OG590 O90 25A 25 580 nm 600 nm Really a red filter
# 29 RG630 O91 - 29 600 nm 620 nm Dark Red
# 70 RG665 - - - 640 nm 680 nm Very Dark Red
# 89B RG695 O92 R72 - 680 nm 720 nm Almost Black, but not quite. (MOST COMMON REPLACEMENT FILTER FOR AN IR CONVERTED DIGITAL CAMERA)
# 88A RG715 - - - 720 nm 780 nm Anyone ever seen one?
# 87 RG780 - - 87 740 nm 795 nm Cuts off ALL visible light
# 87C RG830 O93 - - 790 nm 850 nm Usually called “Black”
# 87B RG850 - RM90 - 880 nm 930 nm Very expensive - $250 upwards
# 87A RG1000 O94 RM100 - 880 nm 1050 nm Blocks even some infrared.

nm = nanometers = wavelength.

Thanks for the link Andy.
I will read up a bit when I have a chance.
Perhaps I also need to have a greater understanding of the sensitivity of digital sensors to IR and UV.

Going for a look at Harry's followed by Sassans gallery now to really look at what an IR converted camera is capable of. :)

Don

Thanks Don, I've trawled through both recently and there are some excellent images. I notice you've brought back an earlier thread on IR that was started by Duncan four years ago -- I've LINKED it here

http://www.worldphotographyforum.com...hread.php?t=63 -

it also makes very interesting reading. Thanks.

Ah, those were the days. Don't have the *istDS any more. That was good for IR. The K10D is pretty poor for IR, filter is too strong. Might give it a go again on a bright sunny day to see how much I can push things. I'm a bit better at processing now. Will have to use Debbi's 50-200 as it's the only lens we now have that will take the Hoya R72.

I tried the Cokin IR filter at my local shop today and have just taken a look at the images... very disapointed. I guess that my 30D must have a strong internal IR filter as the results were not what I was hoping for. Basically I've just got shots with a very strong red cast that I can't process to give anything other than a typical B&W effect, nothing like the files I got when testing a IR converted D200 the other week... I guess I need to either forget IR for the time being or bite the bullet and get my 30D converted.

Peter,

I am about to post in Duncans Infra Red Photography thread and that gives some indication of the changing cast as the image is processed. Never having seen an out of camera shot from a converted camera its hard to know the difference between that and a filter job.

I am not convinced by the Cokin system for this as the filter to lens is not light tight. If you post a copy of what you got I will give it a look in NX2 using the same route that I took in my latest post in the Infra Red Photography thread.

Don

Peter I have found this on the 30D and Hoya R72 filter for infrared if it helps.
Cokin filter will have a similar wavelength cutoff. The Hoya is screw in so no possibility of stray light.

Never going to equal a sensor conversion but then its lots cheaper. ;)

http://www.dimagemaker.com/2006/11/1...y-performance/

Don

I've been waiting for some decent IR weather before replying to Dons post re. shutter/aperture settings. These are printed on the photograph, but Exif should be available on each photo

Well this evening the sky turned a reasonble blue, so I popped outside and fired of two shots.

The first two are taken from my front garden with the sun shining in the wrong direction. The photo is facing North with the sun in the East.

The second is taken a short distance up the road from me. Here the sun is more or less behind me (the best place for IR), but shaded by the nearby trees.

In both cases I have uploaded both the B&W and False Colour IR version.

Before taking the photos I created a custom white balance by taking a full frame exposure of the lawn and a second at the church. This is very important for false colour IR and is needed to create the nice blue sky and white foliage.

Processing was Auto Levels + swapping the Red & Blue Channels for the colour version and just Auto Levels for the B&W.

Not the best examples, but hopefully when the weather improves, they will improve.

Harry