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Old 12-06-13, 17:27
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nldunne nldunne is offline  
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Vancouver, B C Canada
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Following are ideas I have tried in recent times I hope someone may find helpful.

My cam I set to PROGRAM MODE and my ISO at 800 MANUAL with the E V at
MINUS O.7 for most of my studies.

My VIEWCATCHER - PARTLY OPEN I use to study my subject - with and without the cam. Next - in the cam - I work up my EV - using my E V control. My idea to MATCH the GREY of the V C to as close a GREY TONE in the cam. My cam is set to Black and White. My subject I aim at through the opening in the V C and set the EV with the EV Control. My idea is to MATCH a Grey Value in the Subject with the Grey of the V C. When I finish this MATCH, I then decide - do I leave it B and W or set the cam to COLOR?

Next, I try to study Eye Level Line by sighting down a straight edge. My intention is to put the Eye Level on the Top Horizontal Third Line in the cam and on the P C. Next I take images from different parts of the scene - up end down (right to ground level), from side to side. . While I do this I try to find "frames" to frame my Subject.

Also, being light, I always keep a copy or copies of INTERNATIONAL ARTIST with the camera. My reason is - I use the articles on painting an image as a guide for my own work in setting up shapes, patterns, Tonal Values, brightness, contrast.

When I finish taking the images, I put the images on the computer and study them - doing no work. My idea here is to study the image as an Old Master would study and work on a painting.

My study is done using a colour chart by PHI MATRIX (I have both a colour
and home made black and white version from the colour one ) to help with my image colour and black and white Tonal Value accuracy on the P C.

My image study I start by studying my Eye Level Line with my chair even with the P C Screen. Doing these studies - studying Grey, White and Black - help greatly to hone one's ability to observe and portray Tonal Values, Shapes and Size of my Main Subject. While I am doing this, I also try to focus on - what is my Point of Focus - my Main Subject - and how to best portray it? First I study the images on the P C in black and white - this is
like doing a Grisaille underpainting on a painting canvas in HUE SATURATION in my art program on the P C...

In any tool in my art program - every number I put in my VALUE BOXES - I look at asan artist doing painting stroke or strokes. My thought applies to both above and below the Default Value as the image is changed. Thinking this way applies toBlack and White Gray Tonal Values as well as all Color Shades.

When my initial black and white study is mostly complete, I return to my background area a second time. My idea here is - to give that area only the amount of Details, Tonal Values and colour that is needed for the final image. Doing this can take time - depending on how that part looks. A magnifying glass is a good help for studying small areas. Also my idea is to not to work on too wide an area at one time.

An option at this point for above - and below - is to work up all the various Grey Shades accurately for a complete black and white image only.

As I continue to work on my background, I am able to start considering my main subject area. Here I try different levels of colour, brightness, contrast and subject placement to see how these areas work with the background. Working on accurate detail in this area can take time as the main subject has to be the most accurate part of the image. A magnifying glass can be a real bonus for doing small details.

Working on my main part of my image, I find there can be times something in the background needs to be improved or changed. Having some of the main subject in place, I am able to make these changes or additions more accurately. When those details are finished, I try to focus on the middle and foreground.

My middle and foreground details are then studied and details and texture are added to the image as needed. Like my other areas, I try to go slow and sometimes use a magnifying glass for small, fine detail and texture.

When everything looks complete, I sit back a couple of paces or more from the screen. My chair is on the same level with the image - and I am able to study my image carefully. My focus is on Eye Level. Doing this, I am able to assess if I need to do any further corrections or make any more additions to the image.

Finally, I resize and crop my image to make the most pleasing image I can. Image shape can often make or break an image. Frequently, I use the measurements in a painting reproduction for my image shape. These measurements I am able to type in the size boxes - in my Cropping Tool.

Also, I always keep a copy or copies of INTERNATIONAL ARTIST at the P C. My reason is - I use the articles on painting an image as a guide for my own work in setting up shapes, patterns, Tonal Values, brightness, contrast.

These ideas are added to the ones already posted.

When I finish this exercise, I may have the image(s) printed and framed.
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Norm Dunne

I love the Old Masters for incentive and compositional ideas.
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